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Next up: Sewing a polo shirt in organic cotton

rib-knit-polo-shirt

Next up in my wardrobe basics project is sewing a polo shirt made of organic ribbed cotton with a proper collar with stand and a placket. I love polo shirts and have sewed many over the years, but the last time was in 2008 I think! Adding structured details to a stretchy knits is quite a challenge and usually requires a combination of stay stitching, fusibles, stabilizing tape and basting. Spray starch and water soluble glue are other tricks that I’ve employed to make the knits easier to handle. So the bottom line is – sewing a shirt in very stretchy knits is just way harder than in woven! But I’m always up for a challenge and I like to joke and say that one of sewing hobbies is to battle with knits!

The bodice fabric I’ll use is a grey blue lycra rib/knit from Stoff & Stils organic collection (this particular fabric is not available on their site anymore though, but they got a good organic selection with some really nice colours and prints). And the placket, collar and cuffs will be made of matching blue rib/knit (finding the right matching blue colour was quite a struggle!).

I’ll use my rib knit sloper pattern for the bodice and the placket and collar pattern pieces are from Burda’s polo shirt pattern 7941 (OOP, though it is similar to the henley pattern nr 121 from Burdastyle issue 12/2009). The reason why I picked this pattern is that it has a separate placket and a proper collar stand, unlike the more traditional polo shirts patterns. Here is a comparison to see what I’m talking about:

burda-7941

Burda 7941 (with separate collar stand and placket)

April_113A_tech_drawing_large

Burdastyle 04/2010 (a traditional polo shirt pattern)

Other polo shirt patterns that I’ve sewn and liked

Kwik-Sew 3059 (OOP too!) I reviewed that pattern back in 2006.

Jalie 2562 (still available as PDF! and similar to the Burda 7941)

ks_3059_stripes

A polo shirt I did back in 2006 where I merged patterns from Kwik-Sew and Jalie.

2635487927_300b1eee34_o

A polo shirt that I designed myself in 2008 using rib knit for the bodice and shirting fabrics for the placket, cuffs and collar.

Looking back into my archives I realized I did tons of polo shirts the 2000’s and I really liked how they looked on me. So maybe it’s time to make a bunch of new ones after an almost 10 year long hiatus!

2 Comments

  • PsychicSewerKathleen
    January 24, 2017 at 5:52 pm

    I was thrilled to discover I can buy Stoff & Stils here in Canada! Yay! I think you’re more daring than me to take on such a structured top in knit 🙂 I’m just dipping my toes now into a shirt out of woven – the collar and collar stand I can’t at this point imagine doing with a knit so I look forward to seeing how you do that!

    Reply
    • Johanna
      January 25, 2017 at 7:25 am

      That’s awesome to hear, S&S seems to be on an expansion journey which speaks volumes that garment sewing is on the rise! Yep shirt making on knits is a different animal for sure and sometimes I as myself why I keep doing it ☺

      Reply

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