![](https://i0.wp.com/www.thelaststitch.com/wp-content/uploads/1-1.jpg?resize=400%2C635&ssl=1)
This is the first time I’ve made stitched tuxedo pleats. Doing this kind of exact sewing work always makes me a bit nervous so I googled a bit in order to find some method that was really quick and easy. Didn’t stumble on anything so I decided to try a method that I came up with myself.
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.thelaststitch.com/wp-content/uploads/tuxedo-pleats-tutorial_27180748263_o.jpg?resize=500%2C344&ssl=1)
1. For marking I used my kids Hello Kitty ruler that was suitable narrow and a textile magic marker pen for drawing the lines. Ideally the ruler should have been a bit longer, but it worked okay.
2. I folded every other row and pinned them carefully while checking that the purple lines met on both sides.
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.thelaststitch.com/wp-content/uploads/3.jpg?resize=335%2C500&ssl=1)
3. Then I sewed the pleats, using the sewing machine ruler to ensure that my lines was really straight.
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.thelaststitch.com/wp-content/uploads/4-1.jpg?resize=500%2C333&ssl=1)
4. This is what the fabric looks like before rinsing and pressing. To see if you got enough pleats just lay the pattern piece on top. Remember that if you have a shirt placket on your bib that part should be unpleated.
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.thelaststitch.com/wp-content/uploads/5.jpg?resize=500%2C307&ssl=1)
5. After that I rinsed the fabric to get rid of the markings. This is very important to do before ironing as the heat fixates the marker. Then I pressed the pleats.
6. The next step was placing the pattern pieces on the pleats and cut out the bib.
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.thelaststitch.com/wp-content/uploads/6-1.jpg?resize=377%2C500&ssl=1)
As a safety measure I also secured the pleats with a straight stitch line.
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.thelaststitch.com/wp-content/uploads/7.jpg?resize=441%2C500&ssl=1)
8. Finished! This method took me about 30 min from start to finish and was very accurate.
Another note on construction, I used bias tape instead of facing to hide the bib seam. I can’t stand flimsy facings that never seem to stay put unless I hand stitch, so I was happy to discover that bias tape worked really well on this curved seam. Ideally, self fabric should be used, but I was lazy and used store bought bias tape.
![](https://i0.wp.com/www.thelaststitch.com/wp-content/uploads/8-1.jpg?resize=400%2C326&ssl=1)
The inside of the dress. I clipped the seam before topstitching the bias tape.
2 Comments
luckylibbet
November 2, 2008 at 5:46 pmTerrific tutorial on tuxedo pleats! Thanks – I’ve bookmarked it for future reference. The dress is lovely – doesn’t scream church to me, more like a ladylike professional. I’ve left a comment on PatternReview as well.
Johanna
November 5, 2008 at 8:41 amLuckylibbet >> Thank you! I've gotten really hooked on pleats, now I am aching to do a fitted tuxedo shirt as well!