How to sew in-seam pockets in knit fabrics

February 6, 2016 8 Comments

How to sew in-seam pockets in knit fabrics

February 6, 2016 8 Comments

For my wool jersey dress I did in-seam pockets which are done a little bit different compared to regular side pockets in woven fabrics. The main reason for that is the use of a stretch/serger/overlock stitch, which calls for slightly different technique, because you can’t clip and press the seams apart like you would with a classic side seam pocket.

So here is a really quick method that will yield good result if you put a little effort into finding the perfect fold line.

Step 1. Interface the fabric
Interface the area of the pocket openings. This will keep the pockets from stretching out and also ease the stress of the seam on the fabric.

Step 2. Attach the pocket pieces
Attach the pockets pieces to the garment using a serger/stretch seam


Step 3. Sew the side and pocket seams
Now sew the entire side seam AND the outer pocket seam in one continuous move. Just stretch the fabric in the corner to make sure the seam will cover the fabric.




Step 4. Find and mark the seams line for the opening
This is the most important step. Mark the seam lines for the opening, preferably by using a ruler. It is paramount that this seam aligns with rest of the side seam, which is why I recommend basting the seam before sewing, to make sure you got it right. Another option that I like is to press the pocket fold from the outside and then use the crease as your guide.

Step 5. Sew the opening seams
Once you got the seam line right, use a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag (depending on the stretch of the fabric) to create the opening. As you can see the seam can end quite far out and I didn’t interface that area fully. A lesson learned until next time!

Step 6. Finished
The finished pocket. It looks fairly discreet and folds nicely thanks to the groundwork.

Johanna Lundström

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8 Comments

  • Linda February 6, 2016 at 3:30 pm

    Nice tutorial!

  • Sew Old Fashioned September 22, 2017 at 3:14 am

    Thanks – these tips are just what I needed. I particularly like your suggestion of basting the seams around the pocket opening to test it’s all going to sit as you want it to. As you say, it’s worth taking a little extra time to make sure the finish is right.

  • Jenna January 16, 2018 at 2:26 pm

    Love itttt!

  • […] Alterations: Well, where to start? I added 1 cm/1/2″ to each bicep. The fit should be snug, it balances the volume of the dress, but probably not so tight your arms turn blue & fall off? I could barely reach the pockets in my first Tacara (I’m 5’6” with average length arms, so I’m not sure who this is designed for??) Anyway I raised the pockets by a whopping 10 cm/4.5″ and can now comfortably get my mitts in there, no problem.  I got carried away & shaved another 4 cm off the length, which didn’t leave me a lot of room to work with when it came to hemming. I also used a different method of pocket insertion, I suspect the method in the pattern is designed for sewing machines, using an overlocker/serger was really awkward, I ended up unpicking the whole sorry mess & used this instead: https://www.thelaststitch.com/2016/02/how-to-sew-inseam-pockets-in-kni/ […]

  • Valencroix April 6, 2019 at 10:45 am

    Merci beaucoup !

  • JS June 28, 2019 at 10:17 am

    Thank you! I have been searching for how to sew seam pockets on stretch fabric (swim trunks)! None of the tutorials mention how to do one on stretch fabric. I thought about using interfacing, and now I know it’s a good idea! Of course, the one place I failed to look was here…
    Thank you so much – I have learned so much from you about how to sew with knits!

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