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A New Book Project: Pattern Fitting For Knits

Yes, there is a new book in the works! After three sewing books in four years, I feel like I’ve gotten the process down and I still have so many book ideas that I want to put into fruition.

I love looking for underserved book topics and one idea that has been mulling in my head for years has been to make a book on how to do pattern fitting for knits, that would take a holistic approach and also educate around different types of knit fabrics and sewing methods and how these factors affect the fit of a knit garment too.

But since sewing and not pattern fitting, is my area of expertise I knew I wouldn’t be able to write this book on my own. But as faith would have it, a few years ago I connected with pattern maker Malena Hjerpe (you can read my interview with her here) and we have since then collaborated quite a bit, especially when it comes to our respective sewing pattern lines.

Malena has spent her professional life developing patterns for some of the biggest Swedish fashion brands and she now works as a freelance pattern maker, and one of her niches is pattern making for knit garments. She also has her own line of sewing patterns, PatternByMalena.

So once my latest book Sewing Jeans was sent off to the universe and I had regained some of my energy, I felt so excited about this new book idea and having Malena as my co-author.

In September we went from planning out all the topic ideas to actually start working on the book, and now we feel ready to share this project with you!

What will the book be about?

Basically, it’s a book about pattern fitting for all sorts of knit garments, with illustrated step-by-step instructions and diagrams, that will be very easy to follow and understand. Even if you are new to pattern fitting.

How is this book different from other pattern fitting books?

Most, if not all, pattern fitting books on the market currently are geared towards woven fabrics, with very little (if any) information on how to fit knit garments. Taking into account things like stretch, range of movement and the challenges that come with fitting garments that lacks darts, multi-seam panels and other features that we often rely on when fitting clothes made of woven fabrics.

Will there be instructions for sewing knits in the book too?

Yes, each chapter will also have illustrated tips for how to sew knits using the best techniques. Because using the wrong methods for sewing knits will often cause fitting issues as well, such as a gaping neckline, shoulders that are too wide etc.

That said, it´s not a book about sewing knits primarily, but I plan to do one on that topic too in the future. Instead, in this book, you´ll learn all the next-level sewing with knit stuff that many regular sewing books and pattern instructions omit, but that will make a huge difference to the end result.

Will, you also talk about different knit fabrics and how to choose the right fabric for different projects?

Yes! That is a topic that is very dear to both me and Malena, so there will be an entire section in the book dedicated just to knit fabrics and their different properties. I actually took a university course in textile science many years ago, and the plan is to utilize that knowledge but make it less technical and easier to digest.

Will pattern fitting for men be addressed too in the book?

Of course, we are determined to make an inclusive book that addresses fitting issues in a non-gendered way. That also translates to how the book will be illustrated and the overall feel of the book. We are aware that most fitting books currently available are quite women-centric when it comes to presentation and we want to make sure our book has a broader scope.

When will the book be out?

We can’t say for sure, but we are aiming for 2023. Yes, that is far away in the future, but we want to take our time and make sure the book is A++++ and worth the wait 🙂

Are you open to book topic suggestions/Will you cover XYZ in the book?

Yes, we are all ears as we are still finalising the content. Just share your questions and topic ideas in the comments.

You are also welcome to apply to become a book beta reader. We are currently open for applications and the goal is to put together a small but diverse group of readers that can give us feedback on everything from content to the design of the book.

Apply to be a beta reader

Hope you like this new book idea and we will of course keep you updated on the book project when we have some news to share. And just like my previous books, it will be available both as a print and e-book.

8 Comments

  • Karey
    November 1, 2021 at 9:44 pm

    I would love a fitting book for knits. My experience is that a lot of the available tutorials don’t work well for large (G+ sewing cup) busts, especially for knits with below 50% stretch. For example, with front only split measurements, tops have to be adjusted to fit both my 16″ high bust but accommodate 23″ full bust, 15″ underbust. 50% stretch fabric is pretty much at its maximum extension. Less stretch won’t make it.
    My back is almost the opposite: 17″ high bust, 13″ underbust, so front and back based on identical block with minor adjustments for bust, armhole and neck (common for knits) don’t work at all. Will your book cater for extreme proportions like mine?

    Reply
  • Iba
    November 2, 2021 at 2:15 pm

    Looking forward to your book!
    1. I find I don’t fill the upper chest area of tops, causing problems for both neckline and armscyes.
    2. Even in fashion photos raglan sleeves often end up looking twisted in the area of the shoulder and at the underarm (despite being cut on grain as per pattern)
    Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

    Reply
  • Mary-Anne Pearce
    November 25, 2021 at 11:01 pm

    Looking forward to when your next book is published….construction, fit and trouble shooting are areas I am interested in, alterations are my thing….I receive more knit garments than in previous years and fabrics are continuously improving.

    Reply
  • Business update: - The Last Stitch
    June 13, 2022 at 11:31 am

    […] So most of my business time right now, apart from all the admin, is devoted to working on the book about pattern fitting for knits. I will do an update about that book project in another post, so stay […]

    Reply
  • Linda
    July 29, 2022 at 4:22 pm

    Will you address the challenges of working (modifying, fitting) with fabrics that don’t have the patterns recommended amount of stretch? How to and how much to alter the pattern? How ease corresponds to stretch percentage? I often find that I have the most AMAZING fabric that would be fantastic with a pattern but the stretch percentage isn’t what’s called for.

    Reply
  • Andrea
    July 30, 2022 at 11:35 am

    I’m looking forward to this book! U

    Reply
  • Bridgitte
    January 31, 2023 at 8:57 pm

    Hi there!

    I just stumbled across your page, YAY! I am looking forward to you book on fitting knits and wanted to know if you will cover Raglan Sleeves. Like most, I have a love/hate relationship with fitting this sleeve.

    Thank you

    Reply
  • Lois
    February 10, 2023 at 6:50 am

    I think this is a much needed book. Knit and stretch fabrics are a major part of most sewists garments. I, like everyone, have my own buffet of fitting challenges: upright posture combined with a sway back. Low bust point but most challenging for me are adjustments for my neck column. I ave a long, small in circumference, forward tilting neck. I love turtlenecks and funnel necks, but I am still not satisfied with the fit.. Even most fitting support for wovens don’t address my neck fitting challenges. Looks like Beta book readers is now closed. If still open I would be interested.

    Reply

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