This is my favourite method to sew necklines on knit tops that have a seam mid-front, such as twist tops and those with gathers in the seam. I’ve adapted this method from Burda’s instructions for these kinds of designs and since Burdastyle magazine instructions usually lack illustrations I thought it would be helpful to do a tutorial to show you how it’s done.
The principle of how it works:
The back neckline has a folded strip of fabric attached that is turned inwards. And the front v-neck has a seam allowance that will be folded. Once attached and folded, the neckline will be topstitched. This creates a very non-bulky and beautiful neckline without having to use a facing.
- A strip of self-fabric cut cross-wise that when folded and attached will have the same width as the seam allowance of the front neckline. Make the strip slightly longer than the neckline.
- Clear elastic or fusible tape to stabilise the shoulder seam
How to finish a v-neckline on knit dresses and tops
1. Fold the back neckline band and press
2. Attach the folded band to the back neckline
Notice how the band the is longer than the neckline. This will make sewing easier and you’ll remove the extra later.
TIP: If you use a serger, try to increase the differential feed slightly to keep the neckline from stretching out.
3. Stabilise and sew together the shoulder seams
Place clear elastic on the reverse side of the back piece and sew together the shoulder seam. Don’t use clear elastic on the part of the neckline that will be folded as this will add too much bulk. If the clear elastic is not your friend, use a strip of fusible stabilising instead.
4. Fold the neckline inwards
TIP: Use basting glue or regular stick glue to keep the band in place. It will disappear when washed.
5. Stitch the neckline
Use a twin-needle on the sewing machine or the coverstitch machine.
The inside of the neckline. As you can see the finish is really smooth and non-bulky and perfect when doing knit necklines on thin fabric. I have tried so many methods and this is the one I’ve found to be the best. Plus no floppy facings!