With the right tools and preparation, sewing jeans back pockets are a fairly easy thing to do. This tutorial will show a method that closely mimics the way jeans are sewn in the garment industry.
Tools for sewing jeans back pockets
- Paperboard for pressing templates
- Tracing pen or another marking tool
- Topstitching thread
- Edge presser foot
- Jeans or topstitching needles
I like to stitch the back pockets first thing, before sewing the crotch seams, as it is easier. But you can do it later too if you want to experiment with placements which is easier once the other seams are sewn.
1. Create a pressing template
The pressing template should be the back pocket without the seam allowance. You can use a cartoon from a frozen pizza, the back of a legal pad or some other stable paper.
2. Fold and press the top of the pocket
Insert the pressing template when making the second fold
3. Press in the remaining edges
Use the pressing template as your guide, this is the genius part with this method as it will create even pockets with razor-sharp corners. I don’t overcast the edges, as this is not common practice in the jeans making industry, but you can do that if you like.
4. Topstitch the upper pocket seam
5. Mark the pocket placement
I have punched three holes in my master jeans pattern to make marking easy. Note: You might want to shift the right pocket to the left a bit to balance out the topstitching of the crotch, as it will throw off the mid-point of the crotch seam.
6. Place the pressed pocket on the back piece
Make sure that the corners fo the pocket aligns with the dots.
7. Topstitch the pocket
Pin using just one or two needles in the middle (or a few basting stitches) to attach the pocket. Then top stitch the pocket into place. Using a presser foot with a seam guide will make this easier. Align the guide along the edge of the pocket for the outer row.
Stitch the second row using the outer edge of the presser foot as a guide.
The finished pocket
You can use bar tack stitching or rivets to secure the back pockets even more.
Other tutorials in my jeans making series